Barely, just enough to squeeze in a 1/4" of the pickup depth. I have no idea why I thought transferring the template to a piece of maple would make a difference.
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Barely, just enough to squeeze in a 1/4" of the pickup depth. I have no idea why I thought transferring the template to a piece of maple would make a difference.
Thanks all!
This was a little disappointing. I cut a hole in a piece of maple from the Delano pickup template, and it's just too small for the pickup to fit into.
I could sand it out a bit, or just wrap the pickup in tape, and do that template making process with the bondo. Why did I spent $12.00 on a factory template again?
Grrrrr.
Think I should take it up with Best Bass Gear? I bought it from them.
you should at least let them know about it.
What's needed is blood.....guts.....gore.....Mwahhahahahaaaaa!.......
Can you get a roof rack for that? I’ve seen people with sheets of plywood roped to a Civic, things can go wrong quick! The 2x4 out the passenger window, like a lance in a jousting tournament, is particularly worriesome. I’ve decided your husband needs to get you a tow hitch and a little open bed trailer.
OK, sent an email to BBG. We'll see what happens.
Regarding the car, there is some kind of roof rack, but perhaps it's an option or something. There are rails that go from front to back, and it looks like a piece may fit between them somehow. There's lots of room in the interior. It looks like I could fit the SVT 8x10 with the rear seats folded down. In practice, if there's major wood or gear movement, I'll use my husband's car
Regarding the car, there is some kind of roof rack, but perhaps it's an option or something. There are rails that go from front to back, and it looks like a piece may fit between them somehow. There's lots of room in the interior. It looks like I could fit the SVT 8x10 with the rear seats folded down. In practice, if there's major wood or gear movement, I'll use my husband's car
As usual, Best Bass Gear offers top notch customer service. They got back to me first thing this morning, requesting pictures to verify that the additional templates in stock won't yield the same results. Here's the pictures I sent.
Just a quick update on the template issue. BBG found that they have one template that fits correctly, which they are shipping to me. Apparently, the other templates in stock are like the one I have, which does not fit correctly. What a great company to do business with!
More sanding on the body wings.
I'm getting pretty close. The simple truth, however, is that I no longer have the strength or endurance in me to hand sand body wings to shape. I'm seriously considering moving over to the template/rout method for body wings, especially when working with walnut. Tear out be damned. I can work on this for about an hour each day. Then I feel like I need a nap. Then I'm groggy for the rest of the day. Criminy.
I'm getting pretty close. The simple truth, however, is that I no longer have the strength or endurance in me to hand sand body wings to shape. I'm seriously considering moving over to the template/rout method for body wings, especially when working with walnut. Tear out be damned. I can work on this for about an hour each day. Then I feel like I need a nap. Then I'm groggy for the rest of the day. Criminy.
I’m still using the Robosander, it’s slow, but it works, not a spindle sander, so you have to keep cleaning the drum. No tearout anyway. I’m kind of dead in the water on my HF2 build, trying to figure out how to machine highly figured curly maple without tearing the hell out of it. I’ll do the body shape with the Robosander, but using it for long straight sections like the neck beam taper seems risky. Maybe I’ll try it on scrap and see if it can generate a straight line. Have you tried the spiral cut pattern bits? I’m a little torn on buying one for $40 only to find it still tears out.
If you make a long, straight pattern for the Robosander it should make a long straight edge?
Body wing rough sanding is pretty much done.
Finally.
I think the next step is continuing on the neck. Slotting the fretboard, registration, and cutting the taper.
*edit - oh yeah, and cutting out the "F" holes on the wings.
Finally.
I think the next step is continuing on the neck. Slotting the fretboard, registration, and cutting the taper.
*edit - oh yeah, and cutting out the "F" holes on the wings.
My experience with the Robosander is mixed, in theory a straight template will yield a straight cut, but since the drum itself is hard rubber, there may be a tiny bit of “give” on long straight runs. I found that to be true on curves, you have to use a light hand and let the drum do the work, guided by the bearing. I’ll try it on scrap, if I can’t get a gluejoint straight surface, it’s not worth much. I’ll let you know!
(Sorry for the thread derail Mapke, I digress, per usual)
(Sorry for the thread derail Mapke, I digress, per usual)
Both "F" holes are routed.
Now I really have to start working on the neck and fretboard. No excuses anymore.
Now I really have to start working on the neck and fretboard. No excuses anymore.
They look more like the letter "A", does that make them...Both "F" holes are routed.
Now I really have to start working on the neck and fretboard. No excuses anymore.
(Sorry, couldn't help it
)
Oh totally. There's no question those are A-holes...They look more like the letter "A", does that make them...
(Sorry, couldn't help it
They look more like the letter "A", does that make them...
(Sorry, couldn't help it
