It's not possible to compare a "nude" driver to a cab!
And here we are back at the fact that driver size only tells you driver size. Don't get all internet-tough guy and then arrive in agreement with me.
It's not possible to compare a "nude" driver to a cab!
nope, cause there are drivers meant for low (sub) aplication and those for low/mid applications.And here we are back at the fact that driver size only tells you driver size. Don't get all internet-tough guy and then arrive in agreement with me.
It's just a matter of what yardstick I chose to measure with.
Imo the Thunderchild 118 works quite well with low-B-tuning, so I tell you how far down it is at the 62 Hz first overtone of low-B. It's not bad with low F# either, but we might start getting into excursion issues at high power, so I don't really recommend it for low F#.
Imo the Hathor 1855 works well with low-F# tuning, so I tell you how far down it is at the 46 Hz first overtone of low F#.
I could have claimed much deeper extension for both cabs if I had wanted to make them look impressive "on paper", especially since both have user-adjustable port tuning frequencies. Neither of my 18's have as big a bottom end as I would expect from the Acme 112 - that thing's a beast.
As far as targeting the 30's for low end, I once designed and built a prototype cab that was -3 dB at 34 Hz. It had a single very expensive 18" woofer with an x-max (one-way linear excursion) of 22 mm(!), net internal volume of 5.7 cubic feet, and 94 dB efficiency. The laws of physics dictate ballpark 5.7 cubic feet internal volume for a 94 dB vented box that is -3 dB at 34 Hz. Acme, Mike Arnopol, Greenboy, and Roger Baer measure with the same conservative yardstick that I use. That doesn't make our cabs any better or any worse than others who use a different yardstick. I think Ampeg uses the conservative yardstick as well.
Note that the limited top-end extension and beaming of an 18" woofer can be side-stepped by adding a midrange. And note that there are high-end 18" woofers available today that have very powerful motors, and so they have much better impact than yesteryear's 18's.
Are there any rules of thumb that a person can use to estimate the output at lower frequencies?
No. For three reasons:
1. You don't know the shape or slope of the roll-off curve of the cab.
2. You don't know the shape or slope of the roll-off curve of the amp post EQ.
3. You don't know the excursion limited power handling curve.
Are there any rules of thumb that a person can use to estimate the output at lower frequencies? I'm guessing not because it would depend on how steep the rolloff curve is but it doesn't hurt to ask. In other words, if a maker says -1db at 50hz, can I make an educated guess at the -3, -6 and -10 db points?
Are there any rules of thumb that a person can use to estimate the output at lower frequencies? I'm guessing not because it would depend on how steep the rolloff curve is but it doesn't hurt to ask. In other words, if a maker says -1db at 50hz, can I make an educated guess at the -3, -6 and -10 db points?
Have any of you builders ever seen or considered doing a vented cab that has a collapsible tail for a port? I built a labyrinth cab for my home audio system when I was in high school but the box was enormous. What about taking a small cube to mount the driver and then use something like expandable clothes dryer vent hose to give it a 6 foot port (or whatever is optimal) which can be bunched up for travel and storage. Might be too weird for mass marketing, but it could be perfect for some of us crazy old men.
One other question - does box size matter as much in a sealed cab? I get that it's part of port tuning when the cab is vented. With a sealed cab, the smaller the volume the more the internal air will dampen/reduce the excursion, but maybe that can be overcome by driver design?
I've used variable-length ports in home audio, but not a collapsible "tail". I use pluggable ports in my bass cabs (as well as in home audio) to give some user adjustability, which can theoretically be helpful in a boomy room.
A clothes dryer vent would not have sufficiently rigid walls in my opinion, but the same idea in a hard plastic might work. Friction losses might be high, reducing the magnitude of the port or line's contribution.
You mentioned building labyrinth home audio speakers when you were in high school - very cool! I built my first pair of "transmission line" (fancy name for "labyrinth") speakers a year after high school. I had to assemble them in my upstairs room because they would not fit up the stairway. When I was ready to get rid of them and build something else, I had to throw them out the window, for the same reason. Practicality was not very high on my priority list.
You are correct, box size makes a much bigger difference (for a given woofer) with a vented cab than with a sealed cab. But imo you don't want to shrink the box size too much with a sealed cab, because you do lose low end, and the cab can start to sound "wooly".
By using a heavy cone, long-excursion woofer with a very powerful motor, and accepting the efficiency tradeoffs, it is possible to get really nice deep bass from a small sealed box. This is the approach many home audio subwoofer manufacturers use. But along with the low efficiency, they also trade off any hope of decent midrange along the way, so this approach isn't really practical for a bass cab.
Just catching up on this thread. I thought this was obvious, but some of the posts make it clear that it's not. The sensitivity of a driver (and speaker system) depends on frequency. It should be intuitively obvious that a big cabinet with a big driver is going to have a higher sensitivity at the lower frequencies. Is that not obvious? So isn't it obvious that a smaller driver/cab requires more power to get a given output at the lower frequencies? Maybe I'm just talking out of my hat. What do y'all mean when you say "driver size doesn't matter"?
Well of course, assuming those "all else being equal" things. I think I'm failing to make my point
Edit: Also, I didn't say I was ignoring excursion. To me that's one of the "obvious" things that is covered under "all else being equal".
It means nothing but comparing apples to oranges does not matter cause both may have same diameter.What do y'all mean when you say "driver size doesn't matter"?
The sensitivity of a driver (and speaker system) depends on frequency. It should be intuitively obvious that a big cabinet with a big driver is going to have a higher sensitivity at the lower frequencies.