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Building Slowly
- Thread starter Matt Liebenau
- Start date
When I got home yesterday I didn’t have any Mixol orange and, as I said, I’m not sure if Mixol colors will mix with TransTint. I was also thinking about it most of the day and what I actually wanted was not specifically an ambered lacquer color but to darken the wood a little. So, I mixed a couple of Mixol browns into Createx 4050 and sprayed 3 coats. It’s close to what I was thinking. If anything I could have gone with a slightly darker brown.
As a slightly unfair and wildly inaccurate comparison here’s the body compared to some of the off cuts. Keep in mind the off cuts are unsanded but it gives an idea of where I started.
On to clearing all 3 bodies today. Four, granted comparatively heavy, coats got the flake to where I could level it without sanding through so I’m thinking 4 on the bass bodies and maybe 2 on the guitar body. The color change guitar body had 3 already and was level sanded once so 2 more should do then let them hang and cure for a while and I’ll work on other stuff like knobs. I know VU doesn’t necessarily need to cure for a while but I feel like it sands and polishes better if I let it sit a week or two first.
As a slightly unfair and wildly inaccurate comparison here’s the body compared to some of the off cuts. Keep in mind the off cuts are unsanded but it gives an idea of where I started.
On to clearing all 3 bodies today. Four, granted comparatively heavy, coats got the flake to where I could level it without sanding through so I’m thinking 4 on the bass bodies and maybe 2 on the guitar body. The color change guitar body had 3 already and was level sanded once so 2 more should do then let them hang and cure for a while and I’ll work on other stuff like knobs. I know VU doesn’t necessarily need to cure for a while but I feel like it sands and polishes better if I let it sit a week or two first.
Aaaaand… 2 more coats on the headless guitar body.
Some of the color shift is visible in the picture. I probably should have opened the blind. Like I said in an earlier post, this would be great stuff on a more contoured body but it’s still pretty cool even here.
The Zbird body. 4 coats of clear on top of the light brown tint.
The SBT. Again 4 semi-heavy coats of clear. I told you guys the flake would pop again after more clear! Shoulda listened to me.
The flake looks amazing in person. I’ll let these hang for a little while then get to more sanding and polishing. I will probably pull the tape tonight or tomorrow though.
Naturally, the bigger tip for the LVLP gun showed up after I was done spraying and had cleaned up the garage. Oh well, I’ll have it for next time.
Some of the color shift is visible in the picture. I probably should have opened the blind. Like I said in an earlier post, this would be great stuff on a more contoured body but it’s still pretty cool even here.
The Zbird body. 4 coats of clear on top of the light brown tint.
The SBT. Again 4 semi-heavy coats of clear. I told you guys the flake would pop again after more clear! Shoulda listened to me.
The flake looks amazing in person. I’ll let these hang for a little while then get to more sanding and polishing. I will probably pull the tape tonight or tomorrow though.
Naturally, the bigger tip for the LVLP gun showed up after I was done spraying and had cleaned up the garage. Oh well, I’ll have it for next time.
I’ve been quiet but working in some shop time. I was working on knobs for the two basses. In the pictures the top set is turned from body off cuts, so cherry and myrtle. I did those first partially to get back into the turning swing but also in case the others didn’t work out. They’re currently unfinished. There’s one accident represented there. Must have been a flaw in the wood. Fortunately the pieces flew down so the face shield didn’t even get bumped. Still, “exciting.”
The other darker knobs are what was sold as an imitation horn pen blank at Rockler. They’re inlaid with a piece of myrtle on the top. That material is pretty brittle and chippy. I’ve made knobs out of a few acrylic pen blanks and this stuff is a lot worse. I had a few issues threading them on the mandrel, then one got a huge chunk out of it while turning. Another split while threading it on the mandrel. I was able to glue that one back together. It survived turning and sanding then split again when I tried to press in the potentiometer shaft insert so I just split it open the rest of the way and saved the insert. Out of 6 blanks of imitation horn I got three good knobs and one of those is smaller than the others so I guess it’s going to be Jazz Bass style VVT. They do look really nice in person though.
I’m still thinking about knobs for the metal flake body. I had one idea but it didn’t work out. I also just made some blanks for something more like novelty knobs. We’ll see how it all turns out. I have another idea but it would require pouring some resin and I’m not set up for that.
The other darker knobs are what was sold as an imitation horn pen blank at Rockler. They’re inlaid with a piece of myrtle on the top. That material is pretty brittle and chippy. I’ve made knobs out of a few acrylic pen blanks and this stuff is a lot worse. I had a few issues threading them on the mandrel, then one got a huge chunk out of it while turning. Another split while threading it on the mandrel. I was able to glue that one back together. It survived turning and sanding then split again when I tried to press in the potentiometer shaft insert so I just split it open the rest of the way and saved the insert. Out of 6 blanks of imitation horn I got three good knobs and one of those is smaller than the others so I guess it’s going to be Jazz Bass style VVT. They do look really nice in person though.
I’m still thinking about knobs for the metal flake body. I had one idea but it didn’t work out. I also just made some blanks for something more like novelty knobs. We’ll see how it all turns out. I have another idea but it would require pouring some resin and I’m not set up for that.
Clear knobs with LED back lights for the flake body? 
Could you pour a block of epoxy, then cut it like you do for the other knobs?
Could you pour a block of epoxy, then cut it like you do for the other knobs?
Clear or tinted epoxy and metalflake cast into some handy cylinder mold (saving waste turning off the corners) to make knob blanks seems like one way to go for a metalflake body. Not really a lot to "get set up" to do that.
Clear knobs with LED back lights for the flake body?
Could you pour a block of epoxy, then cut it like you do for the other knobs?
If I could figure out the LED’s I might do that.
I have been pondering just pouring some epoxy. I have some either 1/2” or 3/4” copper pipe caps that are the right size and shape. I was originally thinking the same type of recess in the top of the knob with either metal flake or the color change pearl, I also have some gold pearl. The thing is I’m pretty sure the flake or pearl is going to float in the epoxy so I’d have to do it in 2 parts and it’s hard to mix West Systems in small amounts like that. I may mix up more and try several things at once. I’ve also been meaning to stop by Woodcraft and / or Rockler and see if they have any pen blanks that seem interesting. I just haven’t been that direction with any time for a few days.
With the right tools it's easy to mix tiny batches. I didn't even buy pumps.If I could figure out the LED’s I might do that.
I have been pondering just pouring some epoxy. I have some either 1/2” or 3/4” copper pipe caps that are the right size and shape. I was originally thinking the same type of recess in the top of the knob with either metal flake or the color change pearl, I also have some gold pearl. The thing is I’m pretty sure the flake or pearl is going to float in the epoxy so I’d have to do it in 2 parts and it’s hard to mix West Systems in small amounts like that. I may mix up more and try several things at once. I’ve also been meaning to stop by Woodcraft and / or Rockler and see if they have any pen blanks that seem interesting. I just haven’t been that direction with any time for a few days.
Bruce likes measuring spoons, I use either glue applicator syringes or "oral syringes" which in my case came from the vet - neither is a prescription-only thing like hypodermics. I've seen them at the regular pharmacy in front of the counter, though the pricing is ruinous compared to 25-packs (glue) or " 'free' with expensive cat medicine." Eventually the rubber goes bad, but I just keep one for resin and one for hardener in separate containers, and store them partly pulled back as the plunger seal is less likely to stick to the end in storage that way. With PEP at 2:1 I can easily mix a 3ml batch. Probably have to go 6 ml on the 5:1 West stuff.
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What are you using for the inserts? Aluminum tubing?
I use a balance to measure small amounts of epoxy resin. The syringes would be great too - you can get them at a farm supply store or order online.
You don't expect us to discourage you, do you???
You don't expect us to discourage you, do you???
Hey Matt,
I may have asked previously, but I'm getting old and they say the first thing to go is your memory. I can't remember what the second thing is.
What are you using for a mandrel to turn these? Care to share some more in-depth pics of your turning process? Or just link to where I may have asked previously, that works too.
Funny side story:
I watch this YouTube wood turner who lives fairly close to me (within 10 miles) and he kept using this really big negative rake scraper. I asked him in the video comments where he got it, because I was interested in getting one. He responded, and then I forgot all about it. So a few months later I asked him again, he responded, and then I forgot about it. A few more months later I asked him again and his next video he said "I have this fella that keeps asking me about this tool and I've responded, but I don't think he's seeing my reply...."
I commented on that video and said "Sorry Phil, I'm just getting old and keep forgetting that I asked you."
I may have asked previously, but I'm getting old and they say the first thing to go is your memory. I can't remember what the second thing is.
What are you using for a mandrel to turn these? Care to share some more in-depth pics of your turning process? Or just link to where I may have asked previously, that works too.
Funny side story:
I watch this YouTube wood turner who lives fairly close to me (within 10 miles) and he kept using this really big negative rake scraper. I asked him in the video comments where he got it, because I was interested in getting one. He responded, and then I forgot all about it. So a few months later I asked him again, he responded, and then I forgot about it. A few more months later I asked him again and his next video he said "I have this fella that keeps asking me about this tool and I've responded, but I don't think he's seeing my reply...."
I commented on that video and said "Sorry Phil, I'm just getting old and keep forgetting that I asked you."
There's what looks to be an old (or wait, do I mean "classic?") Sears monotube lathe lurking in the paint pictures on the 42nd page of the thread. Which might or might not be the lathe in question here, @TerribleTim68
Not one of my favorite lathes, they like to go out of whack with the degrees of freedom the single tube base offers the parts. But better 'n no lathe.
Not one of my favorite lathes, they like to go out of whack with the degrees of freedom the single tube base offers the parts. But better 'n no lathe.
I started on Grandpa's old Sears dual tube lathe. Only slightly better.
I'm hoping for more info specifically on how he is holding the knobs, I'd love to see the mandrel he is chucking them in. I have several pen turning mandrels, but they are way too small. I think I also have a bottle stopper mandrel somewhere, which could be too big.
But I've got this Tele build that may require some custom knobs and I'm always looking for a better way to hold those tiny parts on the lathe.
I started on Grandpa's old Sears dual tube lathe. Only slightly better.
I'm hoping for more info specifically on how he is holding the knobs, I'd love to see the mandrel he is chucking them in. I have several pen turning mandrels, but they are way too small. I think I also have a bottle stopper mandrel somewhere, which could be too big.
But I've got this Tele build that may require some custom knobs and I'm always looking for a better way to hold those tiny parts on the lathe.
Basically, the mandrel needs to be the same as the pot shaft. For normal setscrew-type knobs, it's just a piece of 1/4" rod stock. That's what I've used.
For a knurled press-on knob, you can cut the shaft out of an old pot, and then mount it into a shaft that can be chucked in your lathe.
Thanks guys. I appreciate all the compliments and encouragement. To answer a few things. I do have syringes although I forgot to mark the last ones I used for which was resin and hardener so I should probably get more. I’m still thinking about trying to cast some. I’d like to try mixing some flake or pearl in there but I’m pretty sure it would all settle to whichever end is down by the time the resin cures. If I use the pipe caps as molds the top would be down so maybe not the worst thing.
@Barticus, these are the inserts. Obviously only for 6mm splined shaft, for 1/4”’shafts I usually just go with a set screw with threads either tapped directly into the wood or with a Heli-Coil type insert. It’s also about time to order some more inserts. I believe lovemyswitches.com have brass inserts with a threaded hole for a set screw.
bitterrootguitars.com
@TerribleTim68, I have a couple of mandrels like this. This one is 3/8”-16 thread. I use it for knobs that are getting the above insert. It takes a 10mm hole which is slightly larger than 3/8” so the last thing I do is drill out the threaded hole to 10mm and press in the bushing. I also have one that’s 1/4”-20 thread which is for 1/4” shaft pots and just found one at Rockler that’s 8-32 thread which might work for 6mm shafts that are getting a set screw but it might be too small also. I haven’t tried it yet
www.woodcraft.com
I think I posted my process somewhere up thread. I’ll try and remember to take some pictures as I’m going. You also started a knob making thread here a few years ago (I may have encouraged) and I know I posted there although my process has changed a little.
I watch Shady Acres Woodshop too. Phil makes some beautiful stuff out of wood I’m not sure I’d even use for firewood. I remember him saying that in a recent video, funny it was you. I know he likes Benjamin’s Best turning tools.
It is indeed an old Craftsman tube lathe. It’s been working ok so far, I don’t push it very hard. I keep looking at the local version of Craigslist for a deal and have almost moved on a couple of mini or midi lathes but just haven’t or waited too long.
I think that’s it although I’ll admit I never expected to get complimented on my knobs…
@Barticus, these are the inserts. Obviously only for 6mm splined shaft, for 1/4”’shafts I usually just go with a set screw with threads either tapped directly into the wood or with a Heli-Coil type insert. It’s also about time to order some more inserts. I believe lovemyswitches.com have brass inserts with a threaded hole for a set screw.
Knob Bushing for Custom Knobs Small 10 pack
Create your own custom guitar knobs. Hard to find bushing to insert in your creation. 10mm diameter for use with 6mm split shaft pot.
@TerribleTim68, I have a couple of mandrels like this. This one is 3/8”-16 thread. I use it for knobs that are getting the above insert. It takes a 10mm hole which is slightly larger than 3/8” so the last thing I do is drill out the threaded hole to 10mm and press in the bushing. I also have one that’s 1/4”-20 thread which is for 1/4” shaft pots and just found one at Rockler that’s 8-32 thread which might work for 6mm shafts that are getting a set screw but it might be too small also. I haven’t tried it yet
Whiteside Bottle Stopper Mandrel
Designed with the turner in mind, the beefy 3/8" shaft of this mandrel will easily fit into any collet, keyed or keyless chuck. Use this mandrel to create adjustable bottle stoppers, stainless steel cone bottle stoppers and many other small turnings.
www.woodcraft.com
I think I posted my process somewhere up thread. I’ll try and remember to take some pictures as I’m going. You also started a knob making thread here a few years ago (I may have encouraged) and I know I posted there although my process has changed a little.
I watch Shady Acres Woodshop too. Phil makes some beautiful stuff out of wood I’m not sure I’d even use for firewood. I remember him saying that in a recent video, funny it was you. I know he likes Benjamin’s Best turning tools.
It is indeed an old Craftsman tube lathe. It’s been working ok so far, I don’t push it very hard. I keep looking at the local version of Craigslist for a deal and have almost moved on a couple of mini or midi lathes but just haven’t or waited too long.
I think that’s it although I’ll admit I never expected to get complimented on my knobs…
If I’m using these copper pipe caps to cast knob blanks any ideas what to use for mold release without going and buying mold release or waiting for it to show up in the mail?
Even with official mold release I'd be concerned that there's not enough draft and they might be hard to release. They are pretty inflexible and the suction is significant.
Paste wax is one possible approach to a mold release that's often in-stock in a shop.
Got anything like a plastic pill bottle on the way to recycling you could just turn off if it sticks?
Paste wax is one possible approach to a mold release that's often in-stock in a shop.
Got anything like a plastic pill bottle on the way to recycling you could just turn off if it sticks?
I have a couple of cans of wax. I’m sure my wife has scrip bottles, don’t know if there’s any in the recycling or not. Maybe I’ll try one of the copper pipe caps to start.
Might try dunking the cured blank and pipe cap in hot or boiling water, or hit it with a hot air gun briefly, to expand the copper slightly when releasing.