The Official U.S. Peavey Cirrus Club

#202
I got great results with DR Hi Beams and Cirrus strings. Mine is currently strung with Elixir Nanowebs. They tame a bit that typical zingy sound of the Cirrus, but add a bit of warmth that`s great for recording (and they last a lot too)
 
#203
I used the cirrus strings for a very long time and loved the middy honk you could squeeze out of them.

Eventually I ended up with a set of Slinkies and never seemed to go back, but it's no secret I gravitate towards bright and twangy...

I eventually ended up going with some custom sizes due to new bands tuning so it's Pro Steel singles for me now. (They sound great though).

I think honestly, it comes down to preference in feel and overall coloring you want. I haven't had a string sound bad yet on any of the cirriii I've owned.
 
#207
hi Guys - I picked up TWO Peavey Cirrus 4's - the Claro Walnut models - from a local music store that went out of business recently for $500 each, brand new with all case candy etc. I love the sound of this bass. One question - they are identical in every way, except one has black knobs, and the other has gold knobs, one of which is stacked. The tones on the two actually sound little different two. Do these have different pre-amps? I will post pics later so y'all can let me in the club I hope :)
 
#210
spade2you said:
Some of the custom shop models feature the sweepable mids, which is the stacked knob. Without the EQ boosted, the sound difference between the two pre-amps is minimal. About any tonal difference you hear is more due the bass/strings/setup when the EQ is flat.
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Actually, it's nil. It's the same preamp. There's only one preamp they make with the sweep mids. Trust me, I've replaced the standard 3-band with the sweep mids version in two different Cirrus basses, and the preamp they ship you actually says "Millenium" on it.

The tonal diffs are all about the pickups and the bass design (and strings, fingers, etc). The preamp is literally the same one.
 
#211
Thanks guys - So just to be clear, the pre-amp in the 2 basses - the one with gold knobs (one stackable) and the one with standard black knobs is the same? The pots must at least be different - no? If one is a custom shop, what else might be different to standard, because they both look identical in all other respects..
 
#212
OK I flipped the covers to answer my own question. The pre-amps are different. the black knob one says 'Peavey Cirrus Preamp' the gold stack knob one says 'Millenium Preamp'. So was the Millenium preamp only shipped in Custom Shop models?
 
#213
deekay911 said:
OK I flipped the covers to answer my own question. The pre-amps are different. the black knob one says 'Peavey Cirrus Preamp' the gold stack knob one says 'Millenium Preamp'. So was the Millenium preamp only shipped in Custom Shop models?
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Just to make sure we're on the same page... maybe I misspoke...

The Cirrus preamp is a 3-band preamp with no sweep mids. That is different than the preamp used in the Millenium (and the Custom Shop Cirrus') that has sweep mids.

I thought it was being stated that the sweep mids preamp in the Cirrus was different from the Millenium, which they aren't... it's the same preamp. However, it is (albeit mildly) different from the non-sweep Cirrus preamp.

Sorry if I misread and confused the matter. :)
 
#215
deekay911 said:
No problem - I got it now :) so it looks like the Millenium preamp was an option on the Cirrus - is that the only thing that might be 'custom'? I guess $500 for a brand new custom shop model makes it an even better deal :)
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No, there's lots of options you can get with the Custom Shop on the Cirrus... it's not just the different preamp. Peavey used to have a cool configurator tool you could play with on their web site. Might still be there. Mostly wood selections and cosmetic diffs.
 
#216
I recall mention of the millenium preamp in the cirrus going way back.

Did we ever determine if this was an easy to find and easy to install swap for a regular cirrus?

Sweepable mids would probably cure 90% of my gripes about running my cirrus direct.
 
#217
troll said:
I recall mention of the millenium preamp in the cirrus going way back.

Did we ever determine if this was an easy to find and easy to install swap for a regular cirrus?

Sweepable mids would probably cure 90% of my gripes about running my cirrus direct.
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It's not easy to find, and it's not quite a direct drop in. The preamp is not listed on any accessories price sheet, but I called them and was able to get it.

To install, you do have to enlarge the mid pot hole in the bass. It's been a while since I've done this, but last time I bought the preamp from Peavey, it was cheap... like $60 or so. The knobs were typical, and you will have to swap knobs because they don't make a stack set that matches the rubber knobs... unless of course you don't mind the mismatch, in which case, you'd just need the stack set, but that'd drive me crazy. :)
 
#218
Hi fellow Cirrus players,
I have a Alder/maple Cirrus with a maple fretboard and maple neck. The backof the neck is satin finished I think but it might be oil finish. It's flat looking not glossy or oily looking. Same with the fretboard. I asked the folks at Peavey what to use on the fretboard and the back of the neck and they reccommended lemon oil. Just wanted to check with those of you with maple necks/boards to se if that's what you are using on your fretboards and the back of the neck.
 
#219
cb56 said:
Hi fellow Cirrus players,
I have a Alder/maple Cirrus with a maple fretboard and maple neck. The backof the neck is satin finished I think but it might be oil finish. It's flat looking not glossy or oily looking. Same with the fretboard. I asked the folks at Peavey what to use on the fretboard and the back of the neck and they reccommended lemon oil. Just wanted to check with those of you with maple necks/boards to se if that's what you are using on your fretboards and the back of the neck.
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The back of that neck is natural/oil. In fact when I got it, it was pretty dry, so I put a fresh layer of tung oil on it, which really helped.

Lemon oil is a cleaner, so just make sure you don't make a habit of letting it soak in deep. It'll actually leech the natural wood oils out over time, which is bad. So put it on, and wipe it off (along with the dirt) and you're good. If the wood ever seems to be drying out on you, try the Dunlop 02 deep conditioner. That's actually a treatment oil. A little thicker, and not a cleaner oil. Do NOT use tung oil on the fingerboard.

I'd only use tung oil on the back, and even then that should be required very rarely. A tung oil finish should last a long time.

IMHO.
 
#220
Hey thanks Vic. So tung oil on the back of the neck and lemon oil on the fretboard.
Since you recently did the back of the neck, I'll leave it alone and just do the fretboard next time I change strings. btw the dunlop fretboard conditioner says not recommended for maple fretboards on the label. I didn't notice that until after I used it on my maple boarded Millennium :eyebrow:. That was a couple of months ago and I haven't noticed any discoloration or any other problems so maybe it's no big deal.
 
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